Harriet Brasserie

#Amuse: @harrietmpls inspired, well-executed brunch in a special space. Crawfish & Grits is a winner! goo.gl/itnux — Josh Page (@ILikeFoodJP) December 3, 2012

Brunch just isn’t my thing. Breakfast, yes. Lunch, yes. Brunch, eh. I know I’m in the minority on this one—some probably consider my brunch ambivalence sacrilegious. Still, wanting to hang out before taking friends to the airport this weekend, I readily agreed to a hybrid-meal outing. Plus, brunch provided a great excuse to check out Harriet Brasserie, the relatively new, well-regarded spot in Linden Hills.

Anyway, I associate brunch with loud, hungover crowds and frantic service. Harriet Brasserie pleasantly defies expectations: the space is rustic and beautiful—dark wood, floor to ceiling windows (where the fire station doors had once been), and simple black tables. Servers are attentive and knowledgeable. In all, it’s like eating in a comfortable, roomy home in the woods or on the North shore.

The food is nearly as good as the environment. The brunch menu features several tempting items—Crab Benedict (which comes on a fluffy corn blini), Ropa Vieja, Tofu Hash, and Braised Pork Shoulder. I went with the Crawfish and Grits, and it was damn near perfect. Andouille sausage, vegetables, crawfish, and a slightly spicy sauce (which tasted a little too much like standard ranchero) are poured over scrumptious, creamy cheddar grits. Avocado, watermelon radish, micro greens, and sour cream add freshness and round out the dish. It tastes andlooks great. Speaking of great taste, the thick-cut Fischer Farms bacon is insane!

Although I’m still ambivalent about the whole concept of brunch, I’m sold on Harriet Brasserie’s version of it. I’ll definitely go back to try some of the other dishes—but I’ll likely go a couple hours earlier and call it breakfast.

From the Eater Crew

Letta, elevensies advocate: There’s no real reason for a vegetarian’s perspective on brunch, so I just want to float the notion of “dunch.” Can we do that?

Theme Song

Billy Bragg and Wilco, “She Came Along to Me”